This is my first proper blog post. I drafted a massive one about marine plumbing, mostly to ease the pain of reinstalling the entire toilet pipe system. I then realised that no sane person would be interested. And I’m not sure I have the ability to adequately put that experience into words anyway.
I left my job in January 2017. My plan was to do some basic RYA qualifications, buy a boat and then go sailing, initially in the UK. I did the qualifications, but buying a boat proved more complicated, time-consuming, and above all stressful than anticipated. And, as I was doing it for the first time, I ballsed it up. I ended up buying the boat I’m sitting in, Suzerain, in Madeira, which is located some distance from the UK. I’ve been telling myself this was a mistake until very recently when, after about a month of grubby toil, I realised things might not be so bad.
Something usually needs fixing on a boat, unless it is brand new or very well-maintained (and consequently outside my price range). Suzerain is certainly a work in progress. It seems that, in the process of fixing one thing, I find two other things that need fixing. But I keep plodding on. So far, I have removed and replaced all the sea valves (holes in the hull that you should be able to open and close; thus, important). Here are some photos of the old, inoperable valves coming out:
I took them off with an angle grinder in a day or two. The new, glass-reinforced nylon ones are made by Tru Design, a company in New Zealand, and are brilliant. I’ve also had the engine serviced, and it has run well so far. And I’ve replaced the entire toilet hose system, which was as rubbish as it sounds. The hose and related items were supplied by Lee Sanitation and ASAP Supplies, both of whom have been really helpful and given great service. Here’s a photo of spaghetti junction before and after:
It may not look too different, but it certainly smells different. That cupboard is about two feet square. It’s at floor level in a very cramped part of a pretty cramped boat. I am a fairly large chap. I hurt.
These tasks were all the opposite of fun. I’ve also fixed numerous other more mundane bits and bobs. But the boat is now buoyant and habitable, touch wood. One probably shouldn’t complain too much when living on a boat in the sun. I’ll be replacing the standing rigging in Lanzarote and also hopefully taking delivery of some new sails from Jeckells sailmakers. New halyards are hopefully in the post.
Suzerain was previously in Repmaritima boatyard under the Madeira airport runway. Here are some photos:
Those pillars hold up the runway. The boatyard is run by Mario Olim, a great person who helped me a lot. He would probably say that he didn’t do much, but I feel like I couldn’t have done this without him.
Home until around 10 September is Quinta do Lorde Marina, Madeira. It’s a peaceful place, run by nice people. It’s also beneath a nesting site for Cory’s Shearwaters. They only come in at night, although I saw some when I was out sailing. They make an unearthly noise when returning to the nest. Here’s a recording from the Azores (if I’ve managed to set this up correctly…):
According to Wikipedia, the largest colony is in the Savage Islands, which I am planning to visit in due course if the anchorage isn’t too rough.
On the downside, the marina is quite remote. I haven’t had much chance to explore the island so far, except a day trip to Funchal with a nice delivery crew I met. They have since left for the UK. I haven’t heard from them but hopefully they are doing OK. I’ve also gone for walks in the local area, which is pretty dramatic. I’ve put some photos up. I’m arranging a climb up the highest mountain on the island, which might be the highest I’ve ever climbed on land, I think (Pico Ruivo, 1,862m). And I’ll do some other touristy bits.
I will also continue to snorkel around, perusing the local marine life. On a recent swim I saw the biggest mackerel I have ever seen, and thought a lot about eating him. I have a lot of basic fishing gear, which I want to try out. I also still have one or two significant boat jobs to do. But mainly I’m planning to sail, and get ready for a fairly epic journey to Lanzarote in two weeks.
I’ll be amateurishly photographing and videoing my experiences as I go. I’ll stitch the better videos together later and put them on youtube, probably after I’ve sailed to Lanzarote, assuming my gear and I survive.
If there’s anything you particularly want to know, or if you just want to say hello, please get in touch. Love to you all.
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